36 Hours in Old Montreal

36 Hours in Old Montreal: A Winter Weekend Getaway

My wife and I recently spent a winter weekend in Old Montreal, and it was a perfect mix of history, relaxation, and great food. With its snow-covered cobblestone streets, charming restaurants, and cozy atmosphere, Old Montreal made for an ideal escape. Here’s how we spent 36 hours soaking it all in.

Friday Evening: Settling In and Exploring

• Check-in: Hotel Nelligan
  We arrived at Hotel Nelligan, a boutique hotel with a blend of historic character and modern comfort. Our room, with its exposed brick and soft lighting, was both elegant and cozy—a welcoming retreat after traveling.

• Drinks: L’Infâme Tittle Tattle & The Coldroom
  We started the evening at L’Infâme Tittle Tattle, a buzzing spot with creative cocktails and a lively vibe. From there, we headed to The Coldroom, a speakeasy you’ll find if you spot the little rubber duck above the door. Once inside, we left our drink choices to the bartenders, who crafted perfectly balanced cocktails based on our preferences. It’s an experience we’d recommend to anyone visiting.

• Dinner: Modavie French Bistro & Live Music
  For dinner, we headed to Modavie, where live jazz created a relaxed and intimate setting. The lamb chops and duck confit were highlights, and we enjoyed the warm, welcoming service. Sitting near the musicians added an extra touch to the evening.

Saturday: Culture and Relaxation

• Breakfast: Mama C
  Located on the ground floor of Hotel Nelligan, Mama C was a convenient and delicious way to start the day. I enjoyed a Montreal-style bagel topped with smoked salmon and cream cheese, while my wife chose the brioche French toast, which was light, buttery, and just sweet enough.

• Interactive Installation: Oasis Immersion
  Our first outing was to Oasis Immersion, an interactive digital art exhibit. When we visited, the exhibits were rotating between a Van Gogh-inspired installation and a National Geographic showcase on biodiversity and the planet. We experienced the latter and were blown away by the stunning visuals and moving message. It was one of the most memorable and thought-provoking moments of the trip.
• Coffee Break: Café Olimpico
  Late morning, we stopped at Café Olimpico, a classic Montreal café with an old-world European feel. The rich, espresso and buttery croissant were a simple yet perfect combination.

• Relaxation: Scandinave Spa Vieux-Montréal
  Afterward, we treated ourselves to an afternoon at Scandinave Spa. The hot baths, cold plunges, and eucalyptus steam rooms were exactly what we needed to unwind, and our massages were the perfect way to recharge before heading out again.

• Snack: Poutine at Pub Saint Pierre
  Mid-afternoon, we stopped at Pub Saint Pierre for a quick snack. Their poutine hit the spot—crispy fries, rich gravy, and squeaky cheese curds. We took the advice of a local and added Canadian bacon, which made it even better.

• Dinner: Garde Manger
  Dinner at Garde Manger was the highlight of our weekend. We opted for the chef’s prix-fixe menu and sat at the bar, which gave us a front-row seat to the action in the kitchen. The seafood dishes were some of the best we’ve ever had, and the dessert was the perfect sweet finish to an incredible meal.

Sunday Morning: Wrapping Up

• Breakfast: Pub Wolf & Workman
  On Sunday morning, we brunched at Pub Wolf & Workman, where the rustic interior and hearty menu set the tone for a cozy start to the day. The steak and eggs were perfectly cooked and paired with a strong cup of coffee.

• Shopping: Saint-Paul Street
  We spent the rest of the morning exploring Saint-Paul Street, home to a mix of boutiques, art galleries, and specialty shops. My wife found a handmade scarf, and I picked up some artisan maple syrup to bring a taste of Quebec home.

Tips for Old Montreal in Winter:

• Track Down the Coldroom: Look for the small rubber duck above the door to find this hidden speakeasy.
• Try the Classics: A Montreal-style bagel with smoked salmon or poutine with Canadian bacon are local staples worth indulging in.
• Dress Smart: Warm, grippy boots and layers are essential for navigating snowy cobblestone streets.
• Plan Ahead: Popular restaurants like Garde Manger fill up quickly, so reservations are a must.

Old Montreal is a winter destination that combines charm, culture, and comfort. Between the food, the history, and the sense of place, my wife and I left feeling both refreshed and inspired. If you’re looking for a winter escape, this little corner of Quebec should be at the top of your list.